Carabiners Guide
Material
Different materials offer varying strengths, durability, and weight. Aluminum carabiners are widely used and are known for their lightweight yet sturdy nature. A great example of this is the 'Black Diamond Positron Carabiner - Screwgate', which features an aluminum body, rated at a impressive strength of 25kN.
For heavier loads, steel carabiners are a better choice due to their superb strength and durability. An excellent option to consider is the 'Fusion Climb Ovatti Steel Triple-Lock Carabiner', which is forged from high-strength alloy steel, able to withstand a massive strength of 45kN. These types of carabiners are well-suited for industrial applications or heavy-duty climbing.
Size
Carabiners come in different sizes, and choosing the appropriate size for your needs is essential. Smaller carabiners are typically lightweight and compact, perfect for minimal gear setups or scenarios where every ounce counts. For instance, the Black Diamond Positron Carabiner is an excellent compact option, with a lightweight design and a gate opening of 22 millimeters. On the other hand, larger carabiners offer increased versatility and ease of use. They often come with a wider gate opening, allowing for easy clipping and accommodating bulky gear. One example of a larger carabiner is the Petzl Spirit Carabiner, featuring an impressive gate opening of 25 millimeters while maintaining a lightweight construction. Depending on your specific needs, you can choose between smaller, lightweight carabiners and larger, more versatile ones.
Weight
Lighter carabiners are typically preferred for activities that require constant movement, such as sport climbing or alpine climbing. For a lightweight option, the Black Diamond Oz carabiner weighs just 1.9 ounces (53 grams), making it ideal for climbers seeking to minimize weight. Another great lightweight option is the Petzl Ange S, weighing at just 28 grams, while still maintaining a strong strength-to-weight ratio. These carabiners are perfect for climbers who prioritize packability and want to keep their gear weight to a minimum.
Load capacity
Load capacity refers to the maximum weight the carabiner can support without any compromise in its performance. For lightweight applications or non-life-threatening situations, carabiners with lower load capacities may suffice. However, for more demanding activities like rock climbing or rescue operations, it is essential to opt for carabiners with higher load capacities.
In the market, carabiners can be broadly categorized into several groups based on load capacity. The Petzl Spirit Carabiner with a load capacity of 23 kN is perfect for climbers looking for a lightweight yet durable option. If you require even higher load capacities, you might consider Black Diamond Magnetron RockLock Carabiner with a whopping 27 kN load capacity, setting it apart as a top-tier choice for rigorous climbing adventures. Remember, choosing a carabiner with the appropriate load capacity is vital for ensuring your safety and the reliability of your equipment.
Gate type (screw, auto, wire, twist, etc.)
There are several options available, each with its own advantages and use cases. The most common gate types include screw, auto-locking, wire, twist, and slider gates.
Screw gates are the most traditional and reliable type. They feature a rotating sleeve that needs to be manually screwed tight after latching the gate closed, providing a secure and sturdy connection. One excellent option is the Petzl Attache carabiner, which features a lightweight aluminum body and a keylock system to prevent snagging.
Auto-locking gates, such as the widely popular Black Diamond Positron, offer added convenience and safety. These gates automatically lock when closing, minimizing the risk of accidental opening. The Positron carabiner has a dual-keylock nose that prevents snagging and a keylock gate that facilitates smooth clipping and unclipping.
Wire gates, like the Petzl Spirit, provide a lightweight and intuitive option. These gates use a wire loop instead of a solid gate, reducing weight and enhancing gate clearance for easier clipping. The Spirit carabiner also utilizes a keylock system and has a Hinged sideplate design to improve clipping efficiency.
Twist gates, such as DMM Shadow, offer a combination of security and ease of use. These gates feature a barrel-like twist closure mechanism that requires both push and twist actions to open, ensuring maximum safety. The Shadow carabiner has an I-beam construction for strength and weight optimization, making it ideal for liter weight seekers.
Slider gates, like the Mammut Element, provide a quick and effortless way of opening and closing. These gates simply slide along a rail to open, which can be beneficial in certain situations where speed in clipping and unclipping is important. The Element carabiner boasts a keylock nose and a compact design, making it lightweight and versatile.
The gate type you choose should depend on your preferences, requirements, and the specific activity you'll be undertaking. It's essential to consider factors such as convenience, safety, weight, and ease of use when selecting the right carabiner.
Gate opening size
The gate opening refers to the width or space between the carabiner's gate when it is fully open. A larger gate opening facilitates easier attachment and removal of ropes, harnesses, or other equipment. For example, the Black Diamond Positron Carabiner offers a gate opening size of 22mm, allowing for effortless clipping and unclipping during climbing activities. On the other hand, the Petzl Spirit Carabiner is a lightweight option with a gate opening size of 18mm, which makes it suitable for quickdraws and vertical climbing where weight and minimal size are crucial factors. Different segment of carabiners with varying gate opening sizes are available, ranging from around 18mm up to 30mm. Products like the Metolius Bravo Locking Carabiner offering a larger 30mm gate opening size are ideal for applications that require larger gear compatibility or those who prefer a more generous opening to accommodate gloved hands during winter climbing.
Strength
The strength of a carabiner determines its maximum load capacity and ultimately, its reliability in securing your gear. Look for carabiners with high-strength ratings, such as the Black Diamond RockLock with a strength rating of 24 kilonewtons (kN) or the Petzl Spirit with a strength rating of 23 kN. These carabiners are tested to hold substantial weight and provide a strong anchor point for your equipment. Another option to explore is the DMM Rhino carabiner, which boasts a unique gate strength of 32 kN, making it ideal for heavy-duty activities like rock climbing or caving.
Shape
The shape determines the overall functionality and intended use of the carabiner. There are several common shapes available, each with its own unique characteristics. For example, the D-shape carabiner is a classic design that offers a large gate opening and a high strength-to-weight ratio. It is suitable for a range of activities including rock climbing and mountaineering. On the other hand, oval-shaped carabiners are versatile and efficient, allowing multiple items to be clipped easily. They are commonly used in rope access work and rescue operations. Lastly, pear-shaped carabiners, also known as HMS carabiners, have a wide top opening that allows for easy attachment and detachment of ropes. This shape is particularly well-suited for belaying and rappelling. Some popular carabiners currently available on the market that correspond to these shapes include the Petzl Am'D, the Black Diamond Oval, and the Edelrid HMS Pro.
Durability
A durable carabiner ensures that it can withstand heavy loads and harsh environmental conditions, providing you with a reliable and long-lasting climbing or outdoor gear. One excellent example of a durable carabiner is the Petzl Spirit Rock Climbing Carabiner. Made from aluminum, it offers a high strength-to-weight ratio, making it both robust and lightweight. It features a keylock system that eliminates the risk of snagging when clipping or unclipping, further enhancing its longevity. Another option is the Black Diamond Positron Carabiner. Constructed with a hot-forged gate and a robust keylock nose design, it ensures durability and prevents snagging and freezing-up in icy conditions. This carabiner's strength is further enhanced by its stainless steel hinge pin and ergonomic, easy-to-use shape.
- Group 1: Carabiners suitable for rock climbing - Petzl Spirit Rock Climbing Carabiner
- Group 2: Carabiners suitable for mountaineering and winter activities - Black Diamond Positron Carabiner
Rust resistance
Look for carabiners made from stainless steel or aluminum materials, as these are highly resistant to rust and corrosion. For example, the Mad Rock Ultra Light Carabiner is made from aluminum and boasts a strength rating of 15kN. It features a keylock nose design, eliminating the need for a notch, and weighs a mere 36 grams. Another excellent option is the Black Diamond Positron Carabiner, made from stainless steel with a keylock nose to prevent snagging. It has a large gate opening, offering easy clipping and cleaning. Additionally, the Petzl Am'D Ball Lock Carabiner is constructed with aluminum and offers rust resistance with its lightweight design and keylock system. These carabiners provide excellent rust resistance for varying climbing needs.
Color
While some may think that color is purely aesthetic, it can actually have practical implications. Brightly colored carabiners are not only easier to spot in low light conditions or when they are buried in a gear pile, but they can also help differentiate between different pieces of equipment during a climb. For example, the Petzl Spirit Carabiner is available in bright green, making it easy to locate and identify. Another option is the Black Diamond Positron Carabiner, which comes in various colors, including orange, blue, and green, offering a choice of visually distinguishable carabiners to suit different needs.
Certification (UIAA, CE, ANSI, etc.)
These certifications ensure that the carabiner meets certain safety standards and can be trusted for reliable performance in various climbing activities. For example, the Black Diamond Positron carabiner is both UIAA and CE certified, offering climbers the peace of mind knowing that it has undergone rigorous testing for strength and durability. Another option is the Petzl Spirit carabiner, which is both UIAA and CE certified and features a lightweight design suitable for alpine and sport climbing. When selecting a carabiner, look for these certifications to ensure you are making a safe choice for your climbing adventures.
Overall design
A well-designed carabiner should have a strong build and a reliable locking mechanism to ensure safety. One example of a top-quality carabiner is the Black Diamond Positron Carabiner. It features a keylock nose design that eliminates the risk of snagging and provides smooth clipping and unclipping. Another excellent option is the Petzl Spirit Carabiner, which is designed with an H-shaped profile for an optimal strength-to-weight ratio. Its compact size and lightweight construction make it a popular choice for sport climbing. Additionally, the Mammut Crag Carabiner offers a unique beam technology that increases strength while minimizing weight, ensuring a durable and ergonomic design.
Ease of use
Look for carabiners that feature a user-friendly design, such as those with a large gate clearance to facilitate easy clipping and unclipping. One great example is the Black Diamond Positron Screwgate Carabiner which boasts a keylock nose that eliminates the hassle of snagging ropes or slings, ensuring smooth and effortless use. Additionally, carabiners with a wire gate system, like the Petzl Spirit or the Black Diamond Oz carabiners, are another suitable option. These ultralight carabiners provide snappy clipping and won't freeze up due to icy conditions. Generally, carabiners in the higher price range often prioritize ease of use, incorporating features such as a smooth gate action and ergonomic designs.
Versatility
A versatile carabiner can be used in a wide range of activities and scenarios, making it a valuable tool to have in your gear arsenal. One example of a highly versatile carabiner is the Black Diamond Positron Carabiner. This carabiner features a versatile keylock nose that prevents snagging when clipping or unclipping gear. It also has a lightweight design and a large gate opening of 22mm, allowing for easy clipping on various anchor points. Another option is the Petzl Spirit Carabiner, which is commonly used for sport climbing. It boasts a versatile H-shape construction that maximizes strength and weight reduction. The carabiner’s design also allows for efficient clipping and unclipping, making it a popular choice among climbers seeking versatility in their gear.
Locking mechanism
There are different types of locking mechanisms available in the market, each offering varying levels of security and ease of use. One popular option is the screw-lock carabiner, such as the Black Diamond Positron Screwgate Carabiner. It features a manual screw gate that requires twisting to open and close, ensuring reliable and secure locking. The Petzl Spirit Screw-Lock Carabiner is another excellent option with a similar screw-lock mechanism, providing a secure connection.
Another type of locking mechanism to consider is the auto-locking carabiner, which offers quick and convenient operation. A notable product in this category is the Petzl Grigri+ Belay Device. This carabiner features an auto-locking mechanism with assisted braking, providing added safety during belaying. On the other hand, for those looking for a lightweight and compact option, there are wire gate carabiners available, such as the Black Diamond Oz Carabiner. These carabiners feature a simple wire gate design that reduces weight while still offering a reliable locking mechanism.
Keylock nose
A carabiner with a Keylock nose is designed to minimize snags and prevent rope from getting caught during opening and closing. This makes it a reliable and practical choice for various climbing and outdoor activities. One excellent example is the Mammut Wall Key Lock Carabiner. With a Keylock nose and a large gate opening of 25mm, it allows for easy clipping and unclipping. It also features an anodized finish for corrosion resistance and a weight of only 64g, making it a lightweight option for climbers.
Hinged gate
Hinged gate carabiners are known for their convenience as they provide one-handed operation, which can be especially useful during intense activities such as rock climbing or mountaineering. One great example of a quality hinged gate carabiner is the Petzl Spirit Hinged Gate Carabiner. This carabiner features a hinged gate design that offers smooth and quick clipping, making it perfect for sport climbing. With a weight of only 39 grams and a strength of 23 kilonewtons, the Petzl Spirit offers a lightweight yet strong solution for climbers looking for a reliable hinged gate carabiner.
Another excellent option in the hinged gate carabiner segment is the Black Diamond Positron Hinged Gate Carabiner. This carabiner has a keylock nose that eliminates the need for a notch in the gate, ensuring snag-free clipping and unclipping. It weighs 52 grams and has a strength rating of 25 kilonewtons, making it a durable and reliable choice for climbers of various levels. The hinged gate design of the Black Diamond Positron improves clipping efficiency and minimizes the chances of accidental gate openings during dynamic movements. Whether you are a trad climber, a sport climber, or someone who appreciates convenience and ease of use, the Black Diamond Positron is worth considering for your hinged gate carabiner needs.
Gate clearance
Gate clearance refers to the distance between the gate and the body of the carabiner when it is fully open. This measurement is crucial for easy clipping and unclipping and ensures that the carabiner can accommodate various rope sizes and configurations. A carabiner with a larger gate clearance can make it easier to manipulate ropes and minimize the risk of snagging.
One popular example of a carabiner with excellent gate clearance is the Petzl Spirit carabiner. With a gate clearance of 25 mm, it allows for smooth and effortless clipping and unclipping. Another highly recommended option is the Black Diamond Positron, which boasts a gate clearance of 26 mm, providing ample space for accommodating various rope sizes. These carabiners are known for their reliable performance and high standards of construction, making them ideal choices for climbers and outdoor enthusiasts.
Gate strength
Gate strength refers to the amount of force the gate can withstand before bending or breaking. It is crucial to select a carabiner with a robust gate that can endure heavy load-bearing activities.
There are mainly two segments of carabiners available on the market: non-locking and locking carabiners. For non-locking carabiners, the Black Diamond Neutrino Carabiner is an excellent choice, known for its impressive gate strength of 24 kN (kilonewtons). This carabiner is lightweight, making it suitable for fast-and-light activities such as rock climbing and mountaineering. On the other hand, if you require a locking carabiner for extra security, the Petzl Am'D Screw-Lock Carabiner is a top-notch option. With a gate strength of 28 kN, this carabiner provides unparalleled durability and reliability in high-stress situations.
Gate lockability
The type of gate lock can affect the ease of use and the reliability of the carabiner. Auto-locking carabiners, such as the Black Diamond Positron Screwgate Carabiner or the Petzl Am'D Ball-lock Carabiner, offer additional security as they lock automatically and require a deliberate movement to open. These carabiners are particularly suitable for activities where the risk of accidental gate opening is high, such as climbing or high-rope courses. On the other hand, non-locking carabiners, such as the Petzl Spirit Carabiner or the Metolius Bravo II Carabiner, are lightweight and easy to manipulate, making them ideal for quick clips during sport climbing or dog leash attachments. For added versatility, combination-lock carabiners, such as the DMM Vault Wiregate Carabiner, provide both auto-lock and non-lock options with an interchangeable mechanism.
Hot-forged or cold-forged
Hot-forged carabiners are crafted using a process that involves heating the material and then shaping it under extreme pressure. This results in a strong and lightweight carabiner with a smooth surface. A great example of a hot-forged carabiner is the Black Diamond Positron Carabiner. It features a hot-forged construction and includes a keylock nose that eliminates the possibility of snagging. Another option is the Petzl Spirit Carabiner, which is hot-forged and designed with a wide gate opening for easy clipping. On the other hand, cold-forged carabiners are made using a process of mechanically forming the metal without heating it. While they may not be as strong as hot-forged carabiners, they are generally more affordable. An excellent cold-forged carabiner is the DMM Aero Bent Gate Carabiner, which is constructed with a cold-forged I-beam design for optimum strength and efficiency. The Mad Rock Ultra Tech HMS Screw Carabiner is a cold-forged option suited for belaying and rappelling, featuring a large gate opening for easy handling.
Wire thickness
The thickness of the wire determines the strength and durability of the carabiner, making it crucial for reliability and safety. Diameters can range from 6 to 15 millimeters, with smaller wires offering greater flexibility and lighter weight, while thicker wires provide increased strength and durability. For climbers seeking a durable and versatile carabiner, the Black Diamond Positron Carabiner is an excellent choice. With a wire thickness of 9.5 millimeters, it strikes a balance between strength and weight. Another option is the Petzl Spirit Carabiner, which features a 10 millimeter wire thickness, ensuring high strength while remaining lightweight for climbers on the go. For those needing extra strength in their carabiner, the Omega Pacific D Straightgate Carabiner is a robust option with a rugged 12 millimeter wire thickness. By considering the wire thickness, climbers can select a carabiner that meets their specific needs for strength and reliability.
Gate closure
The gate closure determines how the carabiner locks and unlocks, ensuring secure attachment while climbing or in other outdoor activities. One popular type of gate closure is the screw gate, which requires manual twisting to open and close. The Petzl Spirit Screw-Lock Carabiner is a great example of a carabiner with a screw gate closure. It features a Keylock system that eliminates any snagging when clipping and unclipping. Another type of gate closure is the auto-locking gate, which automatically locks once the carabiner is closed. The Black Diamond Positron Carabiner is an excellent example of a carabiner with an auto-locking gate closure. It has a dual-aircraft aluminum construction, making it lightweight and durable for various climbing adventures.
Gate spring strength
This refers to how strong the gate mechanism is, determining how easy it is to open and close the carabiner. A carabiner with a strong gate spring is essential to ensure that it does not accidentally open or become detached while in use.
There are different types of carabiners available on the market that offer varying levels of gate spring strength. Some popular options with strong gate springs include the Black Diamond Positron Carabiner and the Petzl Spirit Carabiner. These carabiners boast a gate open strength of 9 kN and 8 kN respectively, indicating a robust gate spring. For those in need of an even stronger option, there are carabiners available with gate open strengths of up to 11 kN. It is important to refer to the specifications of each carabiner to ensure that the gate spring is suitable for your intended use.
Gate tension
It refers to how strong or tight the gate mechanism of the carabiner is, which affects how securely it can hold and prevent accidental openings. One great option to consider is the Petzl Spirit carabiner, which features a Keylock system to ensure the gate stays closed and prevents snags. It has a gate opening of 20mm and a flexible H-shaped beam design, providing good gate tension and easy clipping in and out. Another option is the Black Diamond Positron carabiner, which has a bent gate design for quick and easy rope clipping. Its keylock nose eliminates the risk of the gate snagging on gear and puts strong gate tension to keep it securely closed.
Gate self-cleaning ability
This feature allows the carabiner's gate to clear out debris such as dirt and ice, ensuring smooth and reliable operation. One example of a carabiner with excellent gate self-cleaning ability is the Black Diamond Positron Carabiner. Its keylock nose design eliminates the possibility of snagging during clipping or unclipping, making it great for quick and hassle-free movements. Another excellent option is the Wild Country Helium Carabiner, which boasts a clean nose profile to prevent unwanted snagging, especially when cleaning overhanging routes or when encountering rope drag. These carabiners are ideal for climbers and mountaineers seeking a smart and safe choice for their adventures.
Gate snappiness
The snappiness refers to how quickly and smoothly the gate opens and closes. A carabiner with a snappy gate ensures effortless and swift clipping and unclipping, enhancing convenience and safety during outdoor activities. Several carabiners on the market stand out in terms of gate snappiness. For example, the Petzl Spirit Carabiner is equipped with a reliable wire gate system that ensures excellent gate snappiness due to its lightweight and smooth action. Another option is the Black Diamond Positron Carabiner, which features a keylock nose that allows for easy clipping and unclipping with minimal gate flutter. Both have been praised by users for their exceptional gate snappiness, making them ideal choices for climbers and hikers.
Rope compatibility
Rope compatibility:
When choosing a carabiner, it is crucial to ensure that it is compatible with the ropes you use. Ropes come in different diameters, and the carabiner must have a gate opening that accommodates the diameter of your rope. For example, the Petzl Spirit carabiner has a gate opening of 20mm, making it suitable for ropes up to 13mm in diameter. Additionally, some carabiners feature a keylock system, like the Black Diamond Positron, which eliminates the possibility of the gate catching on the rope, providing smoother clipping and unclipping experiences. Be sure to check the specifications of both your rope and the carabiner to ensure compatibility and reduce the risk of a malfunction.
In terms of rope compatibility, carabiners can be categorized into two main groups: sport climbing carabiners and traditional climbing carabiners. Sport climbing carabiners, such as the DMM Alpha Sport Quickdraw, are designed for thinner ropes typically used in sport climbing, with gate openings suited to ropes between 8.5mm and 10.5mm in diameter. On the other hand, traditional climbing carabiners like the Black Diamond Neutrino are capable of accommodating thicker ropes, between 9mm and 11mm in diameter, making them suitable for multi-pitch and or trad climbing scenarios.
Ergonomics
Look for carabiners that have a well-designed shape and size for easy gripping. The 'Black Diamond Magnetron RockLock' carabiner, for example, features an ergonomic design with a large ergonomic gate opening that allows for smooth clipping and unclipping. Additionally, the 'Petzl William Triact-lock Carabiner' provides ample space to accommodate multiple ropes or slings, further enhancing usability while climbing.
Some carabiners are specifically designed for certain activities, such as sport climbing or trad climbing. For sport climbing, the 'Petzl Djinn Axess Carabiner' and the 'Mad Rock Super Tech Screw Carabiner' are highly recommended due to their ergonomic shaping and ease of use. If you're into trad climbing, the 'Black Diamond Gridlock Magnetron Carabiner' offers a unique gate that minimizes the risk of cross-loading and increases safety, while still being easy to handle. Remember to always prioritize the ergonomics of a carabiner to enhance your climbing experience.
Grip comfort
A comfortable grip ensures that handling the carabiner is easy and secure, reducing the risk of accidents. One example of a carabiner that offers excellent grip comfort is the 'Black Diamond Positron Carabiner'. It features a keylock nose that eliminates the annoying snagging of rope and slings. In addition, its gate opening clearance is 22mm, providing ample space to maneuver. Another great option is the 'Petzl Am'D Locking Carabiner', which has an ergonomic shape that allows for easy handling, even with gloves on. Its gate opening clearance measures 25mm, providing plenty of room to maneuver with ropes and anchors. These carabiners exemplify a high level of grip comfort while offering exceptional strength and reliability.
Pictograms or labeling
Look for carabiners with clear and detailed pictograms that provide important information about the product's specifications, usage, and limitations. A great example of this is the Petzl Am'D carabiner, which features labeling with well-defined icons that showcase its key characteristics. The Black Diamond Positron carabiner is another excellent option, as it incorporates clear and easy-to-understand visuals that indicate its strengths, gate opening size, and weight rating.
In terms of categorizing carabiners based on labeling, they can be segmented into two groups - sport climbing and industrial/rescue applications. In the sport climbing category, products such as the Black Diamond Mini Pearabiner and the Petzl Spirit excel in providing clear and concise pictograms that indicate their climbing-specific features, such as gate type, strength, and weight. For industrial and rescue applications, carabiners like the Petzl WILLIAM and Black Diamond RockLock are ideal choices due to their labeling showing specific certifications and usage instructions for ropes and other equipment.
Price
Carabiners are available in a wide range of prices, and it is important to find one that fits both your budget and your needs. In the lower price range, we have the Black Diamond Positron Carabiner, offering excellent value for the price without compromising on quality. It features a compact size, a keylock nose to prevent snagging, and a smooth-clipping gate. A step up in price would bring you to the Petzl Spirit Carabiner, a lightweight option designed for minimal weight on your gear. It boasts keylock functionality, a large gate opening for easy clipping, and a snag-free nose. Finally, for those looking for a high-end option, the DMM Alpha Trad Carabiner is one of the finest choices on the market. With its exceptionally smooth clipping action, ergonomic design, and an impressive strength rating, this carabiner is well worth the higher price point.
Variety of brands
Each brand offers its own set of pros and cons, which can impact the quality and usability of the carabiner. Some popular brands in the market includePetzl , Black Diamond, and DMM.
Petzl is highly regarded for its attention to detail and innovative design. Their carabiners are known for their durability and strength, often being made from high-grade aluminum. However, some users have found that Petzl carabiners can be on the heavier side compared to other brands.
Black Diamond offers a wide range of carabiners suitable for various purposes such as climbing or camping. They are known for their sleek and ergonomic designs, providing ease of use and smooth clipping. However, some climbers have mentioned concerns about its gate action being too stiff on certain models.
DMM is a brand that specializes in climbing gear, including carabiners. Known for their high-quality manufacturing processes and attention to detail, DMM carabiners have gained a reputation for reliability and strength. However, some users have found that DMM carabiners can be more expensive compared to other brands in the market.
It's important to carefully consider the pros and cons of different brands when choosing a carabiner to ensure that it meets your specific needs and preferences.